Bus to Lijiang... finding our hotel

Sun, July 26

Mike

Packed, had a quick breakfast, and walked over to the place where we were to meet to get the bus to Lijiang. We were supposed to be there by 8:25 for the 8:30 bus, but we got there about 8:08 (checkout was more efficient than we had planned). At 8:12 or so, the guy we had bought the ticket from showed, and told us to walk a block or so. There we found our bus.

We were almost the last people on the bus, and were wedged into the back seats, with our backpacks on the floor of the minibus. We thought about the rule to never be the last person on the bus, but I think that each bus would have filled up in Xiaguan, and anyone getting on in Dali would be last. The ride was very pretty, but we were crushed and uncomfortable. Anyway, around noon, we pulled into Lijiang, and got out of the bus.

After asking a few questions, we walked a few hundred meters and were at the north gate to the old city. We went to the tourist info center. The staffer pulled out a map. The name of the alley on which our hotel was located was not exactly shown on the map, so the guide didn't know where the hotel was located. However, the hotel had to be near the south gate, because its address was Nanmen (south gate) St Old Alley. We took a taxi to the south gate, and started inquiring. I had forgotten to get a phone number for the hotel, so there was a lot of frustration all around. Finally, someone let me on to their computer. I typed in www.ctrip.com, and My Trips, and found the entry in Chinese. The guy copied the name in Chinese onto a piece of paper. A little after 1:00 PM, we were finally at the hotel.

The hotel manager knew who I was without even looking because we were the only foreigners registering through ctrip.com (I guess). Anyway, the hotel is very nice for 170 Y a night ($25); ctrip had indicated we were getting breakfast, but that turned out not to be true. After unpacking and hitting the bathroom, we headed out into the city.

This area is a maze of alleys and walkways; the only certainty about it is that you will get lost. We found a bank and changed some money. Then it started to rain, so into a tea shop for some white snow tea and ginger tea, and an apple pancake (strudel like, but maybe made with rice flour) and a bowl of noodle soup.

Then, up to the north gate tourist center. Eric, the fellow there, suggested staying on the south side of the river to see Tiger Leaping Gorge, instead of going on a tour bus on the north side, or attempting any part of the 22 km walk. We wanted to go back to the hotel and do some reading. Anyway, we found an internet cafe, and sent a message (which could not be sent for any one of a number of reasons and got lost).

Back through the city (from north gate to south gate is 1.5 to 2 km) where we finally decided to do the suggested trip. The proposal was 350 Y for a private driver for the day, in addition to 50 Y for admission to the park.

It is now 7 PM, and we have braved the crowds getting back to the north gate. While walking, we had some grilled potatoes on a stick, and pieces of rice sausage on a stick. Also a bag of 10 walnut cakes (cookies). All were very delicious.

Back at the north gate tourist center, Eric said he had already promised the driver to some other party, but that we should come back at 7:40 AM: he would see if we all could fit in a minivan, with the price reduced to 250 Y for the two of us, and 250 Y for the other party. We said yes.

We headed back toward the hotel, looking for a Naxi (an ethnic group inhabiting the foothills of the Himalayas) restaurant for dinner. We stopped and bought 200 g of dried processed yak meat for next day’s hike ($6). We settled on a restaurant and had three "snacks": 1. hot and sour noodles, which turned out to be a bowl of noodle soup; 2. fried yak cheese, again coated with sugar; 3. lamb kebabs, which turned out to be 8 sticks in a peanut, pepper sauce (Yum). Ordinary bottle of beer, and Curtis had a glass of a wine, which had a spicy kick to it. He thinks it would go really well with hot and spicy Szechuan.

Back to the hotel about 9:30 PM. We got on the hotel internet and were still unable to send anything. We started talking with a fascinating Dutch couple, who had failed to see the eclipse from an island east of Shanghai. I absented myself to wash two days of clothes and then to bed.

Curtis

…3:50 PM Sunday (3:50 AM for you), in Lijiang.

The bus ride this morning went through some pretty high passes and was quite uncomfortable. Mike and I were the last passengers to board, so we were stuck in the very back: rough on my butt. It seems that when you buy a bus ticket in these parts, they tell you the departure time is 8:30, and if you show up early you might get on the earlier bus, but in a less preferable seat.

Someone we met a few days back said Lijiang is a little bit like Disneyworld in that there are no cars in the old town and you wind around a maze of tiny alleyways with little sense of NSEW orientation. It took a while to find our hotel because the Roman spelling on Mike's ctrip.com account was different from what it should have been (using the correct Pinyin), so nobody could understand what was written down. Anyhow, we finally found it. We're the only non-Chinese guests.

Then we walked around from the South gate section where we are staying up to the central square and back to the North gate, not much more than a kilometer; made a trip to the Bank of China where the ATM works; and then to the travel booth, to get info on the gorge. We are trying to decide: from which side of the Yangtze to view?

When we saw the wangba (internet cafe-- literally net bar), we decided to catch up on email. Nice folks here give you a cup of tea while you surf.

The locals are a bit less pushy here, which is very nice. Still, Mike ended up buying a whole bag of yellow plums from an itinerant vendor, when he really only wanted a couple. Oh well, the plums are quite good.…He also bought some yak meat jerky, which we will take up to the gorge for our lunch. It is strongly flavored with sesame oil and garlic. I wish we could find some decent bread, though.

Later, back at the hotel, I tried to get on the computer there on the second floor. It was free, but very slow, and it had a Pinyin keyboard. (See my rather frustrated attempt at sending an e-mail the next day, below.) Meanwhile we ran into a Dutch couple. Apparently we aren't the only Westerners in this hotel, after all. I struck up a conversation with Dr. Rieks Jager, who is an astronomer and was here for the eclipse as well. Also got rained out. Anyhow, Rieks and I had an animated conversation about Chinese history. I offered to share the bottle of beijou I had purchased in Shanghai, and he offered to share some Genever gin he had brought from Holland. One taste of the beijou was enough. We polished off the gin, and I abandoned the Chinese hooch, leaving it for the maid. The Jagers are going up to hike the gorge on the Shangrila side tomorrow– a 2-3 day hike. They are veteran hikers, while Mike and I have opted for the wimpy route, but again, time is our enemy. Hope to hear how their hike went at some point.

____________

Monday Night from a computer in the hotel sitting in a dark corner of the hallway:

Just a brief message from Lijiang. My computer is REALLZ slow and does not have a Z.
Anzhow, we saw the gorge from the south side todaz. That is the easier waz to view it. I have been unable to log in to mzZahoo mail, so I am trzing again. I hope zou got the message I sent zesterdaz, but in case zou did not, we are fine and are planning to take a plane to Chengdu tomorrow morning earlz. We are in good shape, but internet service is not. Well, Iäll trz to send this message. Love zou….